This is going to be expensive, no matter what. If you don't want to deal with a key, get the 800T-H2A. The key for it is the D018, it's a standard, readily available key. This will only allow the key to be removed in the left (power off) position. The most authentic is a keyswitch, for this you'll want the 800T-H31A. No matter what, you're going to want a 2-position maintained selector switch. Oh, and obviously it must be red.įor the Control Power switch, you have a few choices. These aren't recommended as the larger head will come too close to the other buttons. These both have a smaller mushroom head, if you want the "jumbo" size one, go for 800T-FXJQ or 800T-FXJTQ, respectively. If you don't need the twist-release function, look for any model number starting with 800T-FXQ. Reset can be either blue or red, reset buttons are typically blue, but if it's your trouble light as well, it should be red.įor the E-stop, you want a different kind of button, a push-pull, optionally with a twist-release. Dispatch pretty much has to be green, and Gates, Restraints, and Seats/Floor should be amber. The model number to look for is anything starting with 800T-QA, of the desired color. Instead, you'll want any of the "full-voltage" versions, as you'll be replacing the bulbs with ones that can run natively off the Arduino's 5V. This is for supplying the light with 120V, which is a bad idea.
You'll want ones without a power transformer. For most of them, you'll want Allen-Bradley 800T guarded illuminated pushbuttons. Absolutely buy all of these used on Ebay, they're way too expensive otherwise. So, let's start with the part that really makes it what it is, the buttons. Going above 8 just gets too expensive IMO. Going up to 8 gives you a Control Power switch, and a second Dispatch button, since most coasters have two that must be pressed together. This reset button can also double as an error/trouble light. At the very least, you need a Dispatch button, a Restraints lock/unlock button, a Gates Open/Close button, a Seats/Floor button for floorless and flying coasters, an E-stop, and a reset button of some sort. When making yours, first you need to decide how many controls you want, as this is one of the two main things that'll determine the cost. This is the guts of it, the wiring looks a lot more complicated than it actually is. Here, it's running a light test program, normally you'd never see all the lights on like this.
This is for one like mine, with A-B 800T controls, but much cheaper ones are available if you're willing to sacrifice authenticity.įirst of all, this is my panel.
#ALLEN BRADELY CONTROL PANEL FOR NO LIMITS 2 COASTER FULL#
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